We begin our journey in Ritsem, a place often referred to as Sweden’s longest dead-end road. Whether that’s true or not, we’ll leave unsaid, but even before we set our skis on the snow, the feeling of being deep in the wilderness takes hold.
On a trip like this, it becomes clear what truly matters – the here and now. Everything is stripped down to the essentials: staying warm, dry, and well-fed. We have minimal or no phone coverage, no distractions from social media, only the immediate presence of what we are doing. The mind is still filled with impressions, but they come from the landscape, the weather, and our own bodies.
We must be prepared for shifting weather conditions and temperatures that can range from a few degrees below freezing down to minus thirty-five, though such extremes are rare. Getting accustomed to the cold before departure is a good idea – perhaps by spending a night on the balcony. March days are short, characterized by blue light and glistening snow. At night, the stars stretch out above us, and the chances of seeing the northern lights dance across the sky are high.
Even though countless pulks have been pulled here before us, the landscape still feels untouched and wild. Boulders, ice layers, frost crunching underfoot – the winter mountains constantly offer new details to discover. We cook and take care of our gear inside the tents, sheltered from the wind, while the glow of headlamps and flickering candlelight create a cozy bubble in the night.
After a few days, we settle into the routine. Stepping out into the snow and gliding a bit on our skis to brush our teeth becomes part of the evening ritual. Wrapped in thick down jackets and clumsy mittens, we stand there, looking up, taking in the vastness – a sparkling starry sky, large swirling snowflakes, or the northern lights beginning to sweep gently across the heavens. The warm glow of the tent in the darkness calls us back, but in that very moment, it feels like we are standing on the boundary between the small and the infinite.
Daniel’s experience with the actual route we were taking was highly valuable and likely saved us a great deal of effort by helping us avoid unnecessarily difficult paths. As a person, Daniel has a wealth of knowledge related to outdoor activities, and I found him to be a truly pleasant guy with a very humble demeanor. He had advice or answers for everything I asked about and was also open to new ideas. I can highly recommend Daniel as a guide or mentor for these kinds of outdoor adventures!
Christer Cederqvist, Sweden
Departures
13-22 March 2025
(Permit Application Approved)
Place
Ritsem till Saltoluokta
Price
17.000 SEK
Guides
Daniel Vilhelmsson Wesén
(Ulfson Arvidsson)
Group size
Min 4, max 8 persons
Trip length
10 days
Grading
Previous experience with winter camping is required, as well as the ability to ski 15 km per day and pull your own pulk.
Letter from the guide
Sarek is a national park that boasts six of Sweden’s highest mountains and is home to nearly a hundred glaciers. This is an area that we often refer to as Europe’s last wilderness, where the Sámi people have lived and followed the reindeer since ancient times. The national parks are our shared heritage, and they must be cared for in the best possible way for us and future generations. By joining a guide with knowledge of the area, we can reduce our impact by how we travel through the terrain and act in different situations, allowing visitors to continue experiencing and enjoying “untouched” nature.
National Park Day takes place on May 24 every year, launched in 1999, and is a memorial day for these protected areas in Europe and the first national parks in Sweden. The story begins with Yellowstone National Park in the USA, which became the world’s first national park in 1872. On May 24, 1909, Sweden followed as the first country in Europe and established nine national parks, one of which is Sarek National Park.
The designation of “national park” is the highest level of protection an area can receive; it is given only to the finest and most valuable areas. Sarek National Park is named after the mountain Sarektjåhkka, which stands at 2,089 meters above sea level.
Sarek is an area that has not been adapted for tourism, and there are only a handful of Sámi huts and a few bridges in the area. The region is wild and exposed to the weather, and since there are no comforts, no marked trails, only a few boardwalks, and the terrain is partly demanding, it is not recommended to hike here as a beginner without a knowledgeable guide.
Since my application for a guided tour permit has been approved, I am now able to offer you the chance to participate in a unforgettable adventure in one of Sweden’s 30 national parks. Come along and be enchanted by Sarek National Park in winter or autumn attire, with me as your guide!
/ Daniel Vilhelmsson Wesén, wilderness guide
INCLUDED IN THE TRIP
– Experienced mountain leader, nature, and wilderness guide with extensive local knowledge
– Shared safety equipment, including satellite communication
– Personal advice on food, equipment, packing, and training before the trip
– Tent accommodation for nine nights, plus shared toilet tent
– One night at STF Saltoluokta in a shared dormitory, bed linens included
– Two-course dinner upon arrival, as well as breakfast and lunch on the departure day at STF Saltoluokta
– Snowmobile transport from STF Saltoluokta to Kebnats
– Assistance and support with boiling water for thermoses and drinking water
(If you only eat freeze-dried food, the guide can provide all the water for you)
– Cheese and charcuterie platter with a suitable beverage at an appropriate time
– The book Inspirational Outdoors by Daniel Vilhelmsson Wesén
– Shared safety equipment, including satellite communication
– Personal advice on food, equipment, packing, and training before the trip
– Tent accommodation for nine nights, plus shared toilet tent
– One night at STF Saltoluokta in a shared dormitory, bed linens included
– Two-course dinner upon arrival, as well as breakfast and lunch on the departure day at STF Saltoluokta
– Snowmobile transport from STF Saltoluokta to Kebnats
– Assistance and support with boiling water for thermoses and drinking water
(If you only eat freeze-dried food, the guide can provide all the water for you)
– Cheese and charcuterie platter with a suitable beverage at an appropriate time
– The book Inspirational Outdoors by Daniel Vilhelmsson Wesén
Not included in the price
- Travel to Ritsem and return travel from Saltoluokta (Kebnats)
- Personal insurance
- Personal equipment, including skis, poles, boots, and pulk
- Food and snacks
DAILY ITINERARY
01. From Bus to Mountains – Our Winter Adventure Begins
We arrive by bus in the early afternoon, and the adventure kicks off in Ritsem. For many of us, the slopes down to the lake mark the season’s first time on skis – perhaps a bit clumsy at first, but before long, we find our rhythm. Moving at a comfortable pace, we ensure the group stays together.
At the lake’s edge, we follow the marked trail across to the opposite shore from Akkhastugorna, where we set up camp. Depending on how quickly we make our way across, we may be pitching tents under the glow of our headlamps, with the Northern Lights possibly adding a magical touch to the scene. It’s a challenging yet exhilarating start, and the moment we finally stretch out and rest is nothing short of rewarding.
Distance ~12 km. Total ascent ~67 m.
02. Slow Ascent, Great Rewards
After breakfast and a cup of warming coffee, we point our skis southwest and follow the slopes of Ahkka. We begin with a gentle landscape before making our way up between Ahkka and Siniuyjudis, skiing at a relaxed pace and adjusting our rhythm to the conditions. While it may be a challenge, we approach it with ease and methodically take each step. For the best grip, we use our skins – we typically leave them on for the entire journey. We ski across the lake Sjnjuvtjudisjávrásj and set up camp at the far end.
Distance ~12 km. Total ascent ~290 m.
03. Towards New Horizons in Sarek, Nijak Awaits
Today, we continue our journey towards Nijak and further into Ruohtesvágge. We steadily move forward, stopping from time to time to admire the breathtaking landscape. Behind us, Ahkka rises, while Nijak towers ahead. Today, there is still some ascent to tackle, but we proceed at a calm and steady pace. The goal for the day is to pass the reindeer herder’s cabin and then set up our tents further down the valley, by the lake Ruohtesjávrásj.
Distance ~13 km. Total ascent ~238 m.
04. From the Reindeer Herder’s Cabin to the Heart of Sarek
Since passing the reindeer herder’s cabin yesterday, we’ve completed the majority of the ascent, and today’s stage will likely be a bit easier. We wake up in Ruohtesvágge and ski downhill towards Skárjástugan – the only emergency hut in the area. We cross over above the ravine and set up our tents a short distance from the hut.
Distance ~13 km. Total ascent ~64 m.
05. Towards Bierkikvárásj – Where the Wind Whispers and Ravens Fly
Today, we continue our journey on skis, heading towards Pielastugan, where we aim to maintain a steady elevation for as long as possible. We then climb a little and circle around before skiing down and onto the lake and head towards what I call Raven Mountain. We are now at the Äpharmassivet – an impressive location. Here, we will likely be joined by the ravens that often circle above the area. In a meditative rhythm, we ski north, and as we approach Bierkikvárásj, we look for a good spot to pitch our tents for the night.
Distance ~12 km. Total ascent ~177 m.
06. A Safe Path Towards Nienndo and Beyond
We begin the day with a steaming cup of coffee and take in the sparkling winter landscape around us. With our skis pointed north, we follow the edge of the lake and then continue towards Nienndo. The route leads us over and along frozen lakes and streams, where we carefully select a safe and secure path. As the day begins to draw to a close, we set up camp just before the ravine begins. Perhaps tonight we’ll brush our teeth under the dancing northern lights? Our night camp will be somewhere near Sluggájåhkå.
Distance ~13 km. Total ascent ~192 m.
07. A Final Night Under the Stars at Pietsjaure
After reaching one of the final heights of the mountain plateau on our journey, we begin to lose elevation. From here, the terrain becomes mostly flat or gently sloping downward. We take frequent breaks, looking back at the mountain landscape we’ve come from before skiing down below the tree line. With Slugga in the distance, we navigate around the ravine, follow the ridges, and cross a smaller lake before reaching a larger lake, which we call Pets. We travel about five kilometers across the lake before pitching our tents for the last time, on a peninsula halfway across the lake.
Distance ~15 km. Total ascent ~158 m.
08. From Snow-Covered Vastness to the Comfort of the Mountain Station
Today, we pack up our camp for the last time on this journey. We start the day by skiing across the remaining stretch of Bietsávrresjön – with a bit of luck, we may spot an elk in the distance. We head towards the southeastern part of the lake and join the snowmobile trail that leads us toward Saltoluokta.
After a long stretch of flat terrain, the final challenge awaits: making our way up the last hills. Then, we glide down the other side, where the mountain station awaits. After many days out in the wilderness, a warm shower and perhaps a cold beer by the fire feel incredibly rewarding. We end our journey with a delicious two-course dinner and a night in a real bed – a perfect way to end the journey
Distance ~12 km. Total ascent ~171 m.
09. From Mountain Calm to Departure – One Last Moment Together
We begin the day with a shared breakfast before cleaning out our rooms and placing our luggage outside the reception. Depending on our energy levels and the weather, we ski a loop around the surroundings or enjoy some time in the wood-fired sauna by Lake Langas. We wrap up the program with lunch in the main building before crossing the lake in sleds pulled by snowmobiles. After several adventurous and refreshing days in the Swedish mountain world, it’s time to head home.
10. Flexibility: Excursion, Camp Life, or Shelter from the Weather
With this extra day, we have the opportunity to go on an excursion without the sled and explore the surrounding area, or seek shelter if the weather turns harsh. We can also choose shorter daily stages to enjoy camp life more.
GOOD TO KNOW
Preparations
This tour places high demands on both you and your equipment. Previous experience with winter camping is essential, as well as the ability to ski approximately 15 km per day while pulling your own pulk. You will receive guidance and advice on packing well in advance of departure. If needed, ski packages and pulks can be rented through various companies.
Please note! If pulks need to be rented, this will be arranged only after the information meeting with me, as it is important to coordinate within the group. I also recommend packing your pulk at home in advance to ensure everything fits and that your equipment is in good condition.
Training for the Tour
One effective training method for the tour is by pulling tires. With a backpack, poles, and a tire attached to a harness with a 4–5 meter rope, you can simulate the experience of pulling a pulk in the snow. Let me know if you would like more information on how to train this way!
A Typical Day on the Tour
We wake up around 06:00 and start the day by melting snow and having breakfast in the tents. After that, we review the day’s route before setting off on skis. If the weather allows, we take a longer break at midday for lunch. Since we cannot restock our food supplies during the tour, we carry all our provisions from the start.
After lunch, we continue skiing with shorter breaks until we reach the campsite for the night around 16:00–17:00. We then set up our tents, melt snow, prepare food, and enjoy the surroundings. By 20:00–21:00, the evening tasks are usually completed. I do a final round at 22:00–23:00 to check our camp before we settle into our sleeping bags. By then, most people are sleeping soundly after a full day in the mountains.
You will carry and pull your own equipment, as well as possibly some shared group gear. Our final night is spent indoors at STF Saltoluokta, where we may be able to enjoy a wood-fired sauna by Lake Langas (depending on availability) and a two-course dinner.
Travel to and from the Tour
You are responsible for booking your own travel to and from the starting point. I will be traveling from Gothenburg to Gällivare by train and then taking a bus to Ritsem. When booking your journey through SJ, look for departures that fit your itinerary to ensure a travel guarantee, which protects you in case of delays.
Please note that only one bus per day runs to Ritsem. On the way there, we take Bus 93 from Gällivare to Ritsem, and on the return journey, we travel from Kebnats (Saltoluokta) to Gällivare.
Flexibility in the Daily Schedule
The daily schedule is preliminary and may be adjusted depending on weather and snow conditions. The goal is to complete the tour as planned, but we will adapt to the conditions to ensure a safe and memorable experience.