Gear Guide: Ski touring

Gear Guide: Ski touring

Skis

A longer ski is preferable as it is more stable and tends to float better on snow, and it helps distribute your weight on a larger surface area. If you have a favorite pair you’ve used in the past you might want to inspect them carefully. Steel edges should be sharpened and wax should be applied to the tips and tails (even wax-less skis). Wax-less skis are always preferable as their fish scale bases adapt to changing weather conditions and they offer superior grip in the kick zone. Were I to buy a new pair today, I would choose a pair of Asnes Combat Nato Jeger skis.

Bindings

These can be divided into three basic groups: cable bindings, pin bindings and toe binding. The brand and model I use are BC Magnum bindings. I just feel that these provide the best range of motion, but they do place additional strain on the attachment point of the boot.

Some of my personal gear choices reflect the requirements of a guide but I believe they will also serve you well. Once you have selected your gear and you are confident in its condition, it’s a good idea to take it out for a test ride with a weighted pack to see how everything comes together. It’s better to determine the performance of your gear while you’re still close to home, and allow yourself some room to make changes.

Poles

I believe it is important to choose a pair of sturdy ski poles with a large basket. Be aware that summer poles have smaller baskets which penetrate the snow too easily, and their telescopic mechanisms have a tendency to collapse with the greater loads and demands of winter ski trekking. It might be possible to tighten some poles which are not holding up with the help of a multi tool in order to pinch the setting better, but it’s always best to start out with quality, well tested equipment. I use Black Diamond Traverse ski poles and recommend them.

Sled

Ordinarily I choose a 118cm sled manufactured in Norway, but due to a swap with a client I now have a larger 144cm model. If you are going to share a sled with a partner I, of course, recommend a larger variety. Remember that a smaller sled with a tall and heavy load tracks poorly and is more prone to tipping over. When hauling a sled in the most challenging of conditions, such as going downhill or over small ridges or moguls, every gram and centimeter of the sled’s load must be perfectly considered and packed. In these conditions I let the poles hang freely next to me, hanging from their wrist straps, while I have a firm grip on the sled’s shackles for a smooth and stable ride. This also reduces the risk of thumb injury.

When transporting your sled you will find that most have a hinge or separation point that will allow them to be easily stored on the Swedish X2000 train. They can either be fit in the stowage compartment, in a sleeper car or, if you’re feeling particularly generous or romantic about your sled, you can purchase a double or tripple sleeper and allow it it’s own bed.

I recommend the Fjellpulken X-Country 144 Touring sled.

Backpack and harness

A sturdy yet lightweight backpack with a replaceable belt and attachment points for a sled are important pieces of equipment here. The attachment point is of particular concern, as it should be chosen to allow a firm hold without giving too much play. The pack should also be as light as possible to make your trip enjoyable.

I begin my trip with only my sleeping bag and jacket in the pack. When my sled feels to heavy or I am having a difficult time maneuvering it, I progressively transfer weight from it to the pack. Varying conditions will dictate how this distribution should occur, and it will become second nature. I also keep equipment and supplies used throughout the day in my backpack which allows my sled load to remain undisturbed until camp.

I use a Fjällräven Singi 48 backpack fitted with a Fjellpulken’s waist belt.

Ski wax

A small block, no bigger than a matchbox should be kept for rougher conditions, as it will become helpful on both skis and sled. If you don’t use glide wax, you run the risk of not getting any glide while skiing or allowing water to penetrate the base of the ski. Once this happens the snow adheres and you have sticky snow impeding your progress.

Climbing Skins, sometimes called Chamois

These are indispensable for traversing steeper terrain. They allow greater traction and are especially important while hauling a heavier sled. My pair are slightly shorter than the skis and rounded at the back for a better fit, but you could select skins according to your level of experience and need: longer and wider skins if you are new to the sport and shorter, narrower ones if you’ve been out a few times and understand your particular abilities. Skins are attached using a loop with two rivets at the tip of the ski. If you skied over these rivets repeatedly during a few trips, it may be a good time to check if these need to be replaced or if they are still okay. This wear usually occurs when you are tired or otherwise distracted. Throughout your trip be aware that these skins need some maintenance, as you must check to be sure snow has not become embedded between them and the ski. When not in use the skins should be folded in on themselves so the layers stick to one another, and they should be kept warm in your jacket to assist their adhesive properties when you do use them. There are skin cleaners and skin wax that works wonders in the field, and a small bottle should be considered.

I use 45mm Montana Skins

Boots

Good ski touring boots should be sturdy without being stiff while providing good support for downhill ski control. Mine have a removable felt inner that allows for two layers of sock; a thinner one close to my foot and a warmer one outside that. A plastic bag is then worn between socks and boot as a vapor barrier (supermarket bags printed with the name of your favorite grocery store work best). Be sure to choose boots with extra room in the toe for warmth and comfort.

I use Lundhags Guide BC with their felt inner shoe

Long Johns or Base Layers

I usually ski in a pair of wool long johns. They are warm enough for me and since they are only plain knit, with more contact area and a denser weave, sweat is transported away more efficiently. And since they bind less heat I can ski harder without sweating too much. This can be compared to circular knitted wool terry, which has a smaller contact surface and more trapped air, thus they are much warmer.

I use: Woolpower 200g Ullfrotte

Shell Pants with Bib

Over my long johns I have a pair of bibbed shell pants with knee pads. They serve as a windbreak and keep me warm, especially when headed directly into a gale or digging a snow tunnel.

A bibbed shell pant combined with an anorak can make, ahem, personal matters difficult when you’re out and about, as both need to come off to attend to the matter.

I use: Fjällräven Eco Tour Trousers with knee pads OR Arc’teryx Beta AR shell pants.

Gaiters

Keeping snow, water, mud and rocks from entering the top of your boots is important for your comfort and safety on the trail. Thus, a pair of gaiters which cover the bottom of your trousers and extend to the top of you boots becomes an important piece of gear. Your feet must remain warm and comfortable, and drying out socks, boots and liners requires a lot of time and energy, so please select gaiters that suit your outerwear and footwear.

Crewneck

I like to wear a plain knitted wool crew-neck as a base layer, but sometimes switch to a long-sleeved woolnet t-shirt when the conditions are especially cold.

I use: Woolpower Lite or Aclima Woolnet

Mid-layer sweater Turtleneck

Either a sweater or a turtleneck with a short zipper serve as an ideal mid layer, and fluffy, circular knit fabrics make them especially nice on the trail. They also build a distance between you and your shell jacket keeping you warm longer in strong winds.

I use: Woolpower 200g Ullfrotté

Anorak / shell jacket

Anorak is a word we use here in Sweden for a jacket without a front zipper that you pull over your head. I have a thicker one with zippers on the sides so I can easily ventilate from the bottom. They usually have a kangaroo pocket in front perfect for storing things you need access to. These jackets are made of cotton mixed with polyester which can be altered to either breathe better or offer more water repellency through the application of wax. It troubles me to have to admit that due to climate change we can not depend on conditions remaining above freezing, so where I once left my shell jacket home, I now take it under all conditions.

I use: Fjällräven Anorak No 8 and the Arc’teryx Beta AR jacket.

Windbreaker

These serve as a nice alternative when expecting only a few sub-zero days, and they fit well with an undershirt. The two make for an easy and convenient duo.

I use: Fjällräven High Coast

Cap/Hat

Consider using a cap with a thin liner and big visor, these provide warmth and good protection from the sun while in the mountains. Ear-flaps protect from wind and snow but, unfortunately, make for a pretty goofy look, according to my wife.

I use: Klattermusen Mysse 3.0

Gloves

It is wise to bring along several gloves to use either alone or in combination with one another. This provides the same sort of layering system we use with other outerwear. The first layer I use is a thin wool five fingered glove. The second layer are thicker wool mittens my wife knit, and the third is a shell mitten that is highly wind and water resistant, so the only layer with five fingers is the innermost, as mittens provide more warmth. Sometimes, especially while in camp, I use only a gardening glove or workman’s glove as these are more durable.

I use: Hestra shell gloves, Woolpower Lite 200s and workman’s gloves which can be purchased anywhere.

Sunglasses/goggles

As I wear eyeglasses I use a pair with adequate sun protection. If you do not wear glasses consider goggles, which provide better protection against wind and sun damage. Be sure to include a good cleaning cloth as a wool glove really doesn’t cut it.

Energy intake

Take breaks often and regularly. I usually have a longer break, lunch and another break before we set up camp again. Of course the length of these are dictated by pace and weather, food should always be kept accessible. Good snacks include nuts, sausage, chocolate and almond paste, especially when all are plentiful. Focus on fat and not sugar.

Liquid

It is important to drink plenty of fluids during an adventure, and we we will be melting snow along the way. You can augment this with vitamin C, Resorb or other additive or flavoring if you so desire.

I use: Plenty of rose hip tea, blueberry soup and bouillon cubes.

First Aid Kit

I always have one of these, especially suited for winter adventures, and I recommend that you do as well. To the normal list of necessities I also add a wind barrier, extra hot water in a thermos and additional warm clothing. Being warm, dry, fed and capable of raising an alarm is all part of tending to an emergency, and these items need to be close at hand.

Sunblock

This is necessary and often overlooked. Please be ready to protect your nose, cheeks, neck and ears. Sunblock rated 50 plus works best.

Camera

Along with splendid memories, I hope you’ll be bringing home some nice photos of your experience. I have a pouch which holds mine attached to a shoulder strap that makes it easy to get to when the moment arises. Be sure to keep batteries in a pocket so they’ll stay warm and serviceable. I’ll be taking photos with a full frame camera which allows me a to see the complete frame of my image and I bet, if you ask very nicely, I’d be more than willing to share these.

I use: Canon 5D Mark II with Canon 24-70mm F/2.8 L IS USM

Toiletry Bag

This should be kept on top of your sled for “emergency” access, and should be waterproof and easily identifiable. I include toilet paper, Alcogel and a fire steel for igniting toilet paper afterward. As Alcogel becomes cold during use you may prefer to use hard soap or another alternative. Your kit may vary, but please keep weight and size in mind.

Compass

This piece of equipment depends upon your knowledge and skill. A basic compass is a good thing to start off with, but as you progress you will want to have one of the mirror sighting variety. Practice aiming at landmarks and terrain features for bearings. have heard that mirror compasses are also useful for contact lens users among other things.

Map

A map scaled to 50 thousand is the one you’re looking for, and adjusting to different scales with other maps is not advisable for a beginner. I keep one in a waterproof map case in my right leg pocket which allows for easy reference. We will sometimes be far from cell phone service so I always keep a Garmin InReach with me. This not only allows me a connection with emergency services, but also communication with my wife and children. I can also mark way-points, allowing us to gauge our mapping skills and review the progress of our trip more accurately. The InReach also provides a level of security during white outs. These devices work, I recommend them and I have used them in emergencies. Acquaint yourself with them and be comfortable with their features. If you decide to take one along, know how to write messages, check the weather and use the menu. You could even leave a series of way-points during a shopping trip and see how they look on the way home. The older Explore Plus version is bigger, but the buttons are much easier to use in the cold.

Travel Plan

When the whole group knows and understands the plan it makes for an easier and much more pleasant adventure. Do you know where obstacles lie, do you know the estimated times of arrival and where the next camp is? Lets let the overwhelming beauty and joy of companionship be the only surprises as we are out and about.

Thick Down Jacket

This must be a fluffy, full expedition down jacket with a weight of a minimum of .8kg, but preferably more, something substantial that will keep you toasty when it’s really cold and blowing. Make sure yours has a proper hood and big pockets for things like skiing accessories, food, toothpaste and other things you need to get to throughout the day.

Windbag

These are great for escaping the wind and cold, and serve as first aid for someone who is becoming excessively chilled. They sometimes serve the modest as a place to change.

Shovel

I like sturdy models, preferably made of steel as they do not flex or bend the way plastic ones do, and those with D shaped handles are easier to use while wearing mittens. Some also have extendable handles. A good shovel is a necessity, they become very handy when building a curved wind break, camp site or bathroom facilities.

Thermos

I like to use a large Thermos as apposed to several smaller ones, as the reduced surface area keeps the contents hot for a longer period. If you’re accident prone or have had a bad experience, you may want to opt for the statistical advantage of having two along. I almost never use all my own hot water but like to have it for others, in case someone needs a hot Nalgene bottle to warm up or if I have dried food I want to soak throughout the day. I use a huge 1.9 liter model with a sturdy side handle made by Stanley.

Spoon

It’s easier to eat from the containers we carry with a nice long spoon; short spoons and mittens just don’t get along. Mine is a nice long bamboo model accompanied by a spork just in case my spoon wonders away.

Lunch Menu

Apportion yourself 1 dried meal a day to which one adds hot water. Allow the food to steep in hot water inside your down jacketed stir every know and then until a nice hot meal appears. I also like to have at least one liter of blueberry or rose-hip soup for each day. Broth is also a nice alternative.

Insulated Lunch Bag

Repack freeze dried food in 1 liter Ziplock bags so they weigh less and take up a minimum amount of space. Doing this saves about 10 grams per bag, and on a 10-day trip, you save 300 grams. The big advantage of repacking is the volume, as it will take up much less space, something that really adds up when you’re packing for an outing. I keep my whole food, water and insulated bag packed away in my down jacket during the day adding extra insulation from the cold. Don’t rely on Ziplock bags for mixing with boiling hot water as they are not designed to withstand the heat. I use a Repack from Hyperlight Mountain Gear that serves me well during this process. Choose your own level of nerdiness.

Tent

A good four season tunnel tent is really the way to go. They offer good ventilation on both sides and feature larger vestibules which serve a multitude of purposes; you can dig a cold put under the vestibule which allows you to stand comfortably and even sit on its edge while cooking. This also allows you to reach inside your tent from a comfortable angle when packing your gear when it’s time to break camp. If pressured I might also admit that the last thing I do when leaving is a private number two.

Toilet Tent

On my guided trips you will find a nice, luxurious toilet tent. There won’t be any gilded fixtures or fluffy absorbent towels.

Snow Pegs

These are tent pegs especially designed for use in the snow. They are concave along the long axis and have a carabiner and cordage attached to their middle. They are buried at a 45 degree angle from the tent so that they properly anchor the tent in strong winds. When properly erected my four season tunnel tent requires 14 in total: three on each of its ends and four each along the sides. If you’re curious about their placement you can always refer to the seams of the tent and place these guy lines straight out from there. The corner ones, however, should be placed at a 45 degree angle.

I’ve made my own snow pegs in the past using plywood, auto windshield wipers and carabiners. Others have successfully used sections of PVC piping cut lengthwise to mimic the shape of a peg.

Tent Poles

Four season tents often have thicker poles meant to withstand more pressure, resist friction on the tent’s fabric and provide sturdier reinforcement in heavy winds. In that way they are different than the three season variety. Some people use double poles in tent channels but I’ve never tried this. If you have used the tent for a long time, borrowed or rented the tent I would check that the extra pole sections are still in the tent’s case. I always check the tent’s fabric and zippers, along with the ends of each pole section to insure there are no cracks, nicks or worn sections which might disappoint you at the worst moment. Be sure that you don’t force sections apart when they are frozen together, but instead grab both sides of and exhale on them for a minute to allow them to come apart safely.

Packing the Tent

My sled has a cover that consists of two layers of canvas which are folded on top of each other under a system of elastic straps that fully protects the contents. Between these two layers I store my tent rolled in a long kebab shape. I roll the tent with the floor of it protecting the more delicate walls and securing the guy lines. I also try to roll it in such a way as to help me orient the tent so that I know which end of it forms the smaller vestibule. There are devices called tent condoms which protect the tent better and allow you to place it on top of your packed sled, and even allow you to retain the poles in their sleeve, packed inside the floor which then protects the delicate inner parts. This is a strategy you may want to experiment with that could save you a lot of time.

Site Preparation

When a campsite is selected I take off my backpack and disconnect my sled. I prepare the surface by packing down snow with my skis, then unpack my shovel, snow pegs and my down jacket. In foul weather I dig a platform for my tent below the snow’s surface to provide additional protection from gusts and gales, thus reducing the exposed surface area of the tent. When doing this it is important to ensure that the tent’s ventilation flaps are still above the undisturbed surface in order to provide airflow and reduce condensation. .

Pitching the Tent

Before pitching my tent I secure it to the ground with two snow pegs to be sure it doesn’t blow away. I I then place the large vestibule of my tent on the leeward side of the campsite as my model has two vestibules. I insert the poles sequentially then set out the pegs on the opposite side of the tent after raising and tensioning the tent floor to ensure that it is flat. If there are two people erecting the tent one is usually assigned to digging the recessed area described under the vestibule. Guy lines are then attached and snow is piled around the entire tent along the ground to avoid snow spray from getting inside the tent.

Digging the Vestibule Indention

It is a good practice to determine the depth of the snow by using a snow probe. I do not recommend using a ski for this purpose as there is some danger in doing so, and it is also possible to damage the ski. Having said that, I often use a ski myself, so there.

Tightening Guy Lines.

Part of my late evening ritual is to inspect the guy lines to be sure they’re snug and that the fabric of the tent has not been allowed to sag.

Inventory Control

Before turning in for the night I check the surrounding area next to the tents to ensure that we didn’t leave any equipment outside. We want to be certain that our equipment won’t be lost to the winds or become invisible under a layer of new snow. I usually turn my sled upside down with the skis and shackle below so that they’re not accidentally stepped on. Sometimes I place my skis and poles next to the tent beneath the guy lines.

Warmth and clothing

Everything is more difficult when it’s cold, and these trips will be especially so. It’s important to concentrate on managing condensation and perspiration while wearing well thought out thick layers of clothing.

Snow Brush

These are useful for removing snow from equipment, especially boots, the tent floor and frozen moisture from it’s ceiling. I prefer ones that feature bristles on the stiffer side that they can clear condensed ice and snow.

Candle Light

These add a little unnecessary weight, but the ambiance they provide when kept under a vestibule really make them worth the effort. I’ve spent hours staring into this warm and relaxing light, allowing it to burn out as it reaches the snow. Of course it’s especially important to keep fire safety in mind.

Down Booties

These are a Godsend! They have durable fabric soles which allow you to walk around camp and are well paired with removable down liners. They are utterly a must have. When in camp I switch to these as soon as possible. In the morning, as I break camp, I like to wear them while two 500ml Nalgene bottles warm my ski boots. I’ve augmented their design with an insole I cut from an old 14mm closed foam sleeping mat. As my booties are only ankle height I wear them with a pair of Helsport footbags to prevent snow from entering inside. I have been known to wonder off to summit nearby Bierikvarasj or an enticing hut when close to Skarja.

Notepad and Pencil

I keep notes on my daily risk assessment and other things I wish to refer back to. I prefer a pencil because they work well in the cold and at any angle.

Kitchen Stove

I use a multifuel stove which is easy to maintain in the field. A stove with a single burner head usually works well with any fuel while multi burner head models tend to cater to a particular fuel. It’s wise to bring along a spare pump and repair kit for all stoves, checking with others first to decide whether there’s compatibility among your kit. I attach my burner to a thin wooden board covered in aluminum foil that keeps the board dry and clean. To ensure safety and easy usage I secure the fuel bottle with a strap, but you must first be certain that this arrangement can be disassembled so that you can fill the bottles. The kitchen area must be well ventilated yet protected from the wind. All of this equipment is a bit finicky as your burner heads can become dented or clogged causing an unbalanced flame, and gaskets may also need to be lubricated. It’s best to inspect and use these things before you head out to ensure that they’re working properly and that you’re familiar with their operation.

Fuel

In order to plan for this several things need to be considered: the weather, the equipment you’re using and whether or not it employs heat exchangers, a good lid, the altitude and your requirements for food and water. I prefer to use Primus Power fuel, and begin my estimates at about 3dl a day.

Pots and Pans

I prefer larger models of both, and most importantly they must include lids. In a cold environment these become essential to reduce cooking times and fuel consumption. As I mentioned before, the kitchen must be protected from the wind by either tents or a snow berm. When a stove is used inside a tent it is of the utmost importance to provide adequate ventilation and also to be vigilant in fire prevention. I use a MSR Alpinist 2 Cook System with an MSR heat exchanger.

Tip! I like to include a Fold A Cup or Thermos lid to ladle the water from the pot as it facilitates pouring water into Nalgene bottles. This reduces the risk of scalding and makes the job much easier.

Fire Steel or Matches

A fire steel is an extremely reliable way to produce fire, they do not depend on mechanical complexity or compressed gas, and they can work after becoming wet. They are well augmented by matches which I use to light candles. I store these in different places to ensure that there’s always at least one in every circumstance. Using a fire steel requires some skill, and the risk of internal burning of the instrument must be eliminated.

Trash Bag

It is important to leave behind nothing that wasn’t there beforehand, with the possible exception of organic matter. Examine your gear carefully to eliminate all packaging to reduce what you bring into the field. I like to separate trash beforehand to simplify recycling when the trip is over, or when I reach a mountain station with proper facilities for that.

Utensils

These depend, of course, on the menu. I prepare all meals with a wooden spoon and spatula, and sometimes even include a Parmesan grater which can turn rather homogeneous boring meals into a real treat.

Food Bowl

In warmer weather I use a metal plate, but in wintertime I have a big plastic bowl that almost looks like something a dog would be very happy with. I find it’s just much easier to handle, especially when wearing thick mittens.

Cutlery

A spoon with a long handle works best for almost every situation, but spaghetti can be the enemy of this philosophy. In that case remember to include a spork. When a knife is needed I have one on my multi tool, but those situations are rare.

Headphones

After a few days of gusty, cold winds and the sharp grind of sledding, it can be nice to plug in your headphones for some power ballads.

Headlamp

These are usually used in and around camp only. I have a bigger model powered by four double A batteries. It has a battery pack that is attached to the neck that can also be placed in a pocket to keep it warm. It’s comforting to be able to use a full beam when necessary and only reduce the lamp to lower light when I want. If you have a model with a built in battery you should have a power bank to charge it. These can also be used to charge other devices. Without exception I use Lithium batteries as they do not loose power in freezing conditions. Pay special attention to battery compatibility.

Insulated Pants

I use a pair with a full length zipper and synthetic insulation, worn mostly in camp on top of my long johns. In very cold conditions I may wear them throughout the day under my shell pants. There are many available on the market in varying lengths, choose what best suits you.

Repair Kit

These should include any repair kit supplied by the manufacturer of your equipment and be complimented by a needle, thread, paracord, straps, multi tool with pliers and a repair kit for your sleeping pad. Please remember that tape and cable ties work poorly in cold conditions.

Funnel

These can be used for pouring hot water into Nalgene bottles or liquid fuel into stoves. I like to wear my shell gloves when using them with hot water to reduce the risk of scalding. Make sure you tighten the handle on the pot beforehand or you could be in for a real disaster, trust me, I did that once! I use Primus Powerfuel bottles that fits into the Primus fuel bottle, and do not bring a funnel along.

Breakfast

I like to eat steel cut oats with cinnamon, salt, dried apples, dates, raisins and a little powdered milk. Sometimes I treat myself with orange juice concentrate that I mix with hot water. I try to eat well on the trail so I don’t daydream about the food I’ll eat when I get home.

Dinner

One grand luxury you will have out on the trail is that you will be living in a freezer, and thus, no food will perish! You can take anything from one pot dinners, soft taco shells and cheese and meat to fry with your meal. Ask around, do some research and visit some outdoor shops to find out about all the nice things you can take with you. You’ll learn, while we’re on our adventure, some pre cooking tips on warming up your meals.

Food

Your choice of food is often the most important factor for the total weight and volume of your pack. This usually accounts for between one half and 2 kilograms a day. Mine usually ends up at just over a kilogram, snacks and all. These requirements vary with the individual, but please keep in mind that if you’re a terrible cook at home in a warm kitchen, that’s not going to change on a freezing tundra.

Wet Wipes

When camp is established and things have settled down a bit I like to put several wet wipes in my jacket so that I’ll be able to wash myself as best I can before sleeping. That feeling of cleanliness helps me settle in and get a good night’s rest.

Sleeping Bag

This is where we rest and recover after a full day, so it’s important to have a quality bag meant to keep you a little bit warmer than what you think you’ll need. Remember that your senses will be exhausted and you might be facing a new kind of weariness. I invested in a good bag and it has served me well for over 20 years. Pick down insulated models with at least 800 plus fill-power, and if you intend to combine it with a second bag make the outer layer a synthetic one as condensation tends to form there. As the trip progresses you may detect small lumps in the bag’s insulation; this is frozen condensation and the matter can be resolved by allowing the sleeping bag to reside on top of your sled throughout the day.

Sleeping Pad

The further from the snow you are, the better. I use a regular 14mm sleeping pad, preferably with a smooth surface and enclosed cells so that the snow does not stick. I combine this with an inflatable sleeping pad that has a high R value that can insulate down to negative 30 degrees C. Make sure that the pad or combination of pad and mat have a rating higher than what you think you’ll need. Remember that inflatable pads are vulnerable to failure; their valves can fail, they can delaminate, leak or be punctured. Their repair kits are a very necessary part of the equation. When lying on the inflatable you should sink only half way through it, but one must keep in mind that as your body heats it throughout the night the air expands. A mat and pad in combination is really the best bet.

Nalgene Bottle

Boil water in the evening so you have more than you need. Pour the remaining water into wide mouth Nalgene bottles, close the bottle and place a sock over them. You can use them as foot warmers, next to your stomach, in your armpits or, ahem, more personal areas. After an hour or so these really make a big difference, and in the morning you’ll have drinking water ready for breakfast. If you get thirsty in the middle of the night you won’t have far to go.

Pee Bottle

With one of these you won’t have to leave the comfort of your sleeping bag or tent, but don’t miss! I tend to go outside, but I’ll leave you up to your own devices here.

Power Bank

These should be kept in your sleeping bag or inside your down jacket when worn. They get cold and tend to loose power, but together with you and your nice Nalgene heater bottles you can solve this problem. I prefer to use a power bank of around 10,000 for a week’s travel.

Sleeping Clothes

I usually sleep in Woolpower Lite long johns along with a crew-neck sweater. I accessorize with a thin hat and fluffy socks. I don’t use a sleeping bag liner as I tend to be restless in the night and get myself entangled. The long johns keep my thighs from sticking. This outfit is only for sleeping.

Just so you know

If you like, you may join me as your SFLO guide on my annual ski touring adventure in Sarek by contacting PathfinderTravels. And of course there is always much more advice and information to be found on my website at inspirationaloutdoors.com